As soon as we got back to Lodi from our 2-day quickie in Yosemite Valley the weather decided to get windy again (sigh!) ... Faced with non skydiving conditions we were forced to continue the rage ;) Faith unexpectedly had to leave to Austin because of the important personal reason so we couldn't enjoy this time together. Short conversation with Jordan made everything clear and after a quick call to my old friend Damian Cooksey we were on out way to San Francisco. Sitting in a car I was excited about meeting him again after almost 3 years. Damian has been an mentor and inspiration to me for a really long time, we shared some amazing times during our trip in 2007 and other places. Actually he never stops inspiring, lately establishing and sending long 'Yosemite Falls' Highline which is double length of original line ...
While sitting in a car I was wondering how he is now and going through the old memories. We arrived in Berkley at the Bridges Rock Gym late afternoon, met up with Damian and Alex and spoke for quite a long time. I was glad to see Damian being happy and full of energy. We made some plans for next visit in Yosemite and I am truly glad Damian will be there with us. Next we went quickly to pick up Max and Jared from Oakland and rode back to the Gym to slackline and boulder for the rest of the day. Bridges Rock Gym is such a fun place to play. We climbed bunch of problems from V1-V7, tricklined, slacklined and even set up small and fun rodeoline.
Damian and his fiancee Gail invited us for dinner. We enjoyed amazing home made pizza, had a good conversations, played with two adorable dogs and made plans for the next couple days.
After I've seen video of Faith and other peeps sending 'Unicorn Graveyard' Highline I immediately put it on my 'to do'list. Now we had a chance to repeat that amazing line laying next to the Pacific Ocean with the overview at Golden Gate Bridge.
We started next day repeating the session at the Bridges Rock Gym and then together with Max and Jared went to set up this gorgeous line. Both sides offer natural anchors. You just have to sling some boulders and it is ready. The line it self is 41m long and around 20m high. We rigged the line with Type-18 MKII and dynamic rope back-up (8.5mm diameter). It turned out to be perfect set up and the tension we got was just right.
The way down ... (photo by Jordan Tybon)
The spot (photo by Jordan Tybon)
Before I had to send the line I realized I forgot my mp3 player from a car. It actually turned out to by really nice experience. Surprisingly it was calming to hear the power of the ocean, waves smashing against a coast underneath your feet. It was unforgettable sensation and it brought me lots of joy and smile on my face.
Rigging the tensioning-side anchor (photo by Jordan Tybon)
Windy day on the coast (photo by Jordan Tybon)
Back-up?! (photo by Jordan Tybon)
Tensioning our beauty (photo by Jordan Tybon)
I crushed the line OS-FM and so did Jordan. Jared and Max cruised the line afterwards. We spent whole day playing on the line and getting more walks on it. Both Jordan and I sent in a swami-belt, then just before the day was over I had a walk in an ankle-leash. Jordan got some cool exposure turns in direction of setting sun. That was just amazing. I love the sunsets in this place.
Jared just before stepping off the cliff (photo by Jordan Tybon)
It has been already a week since Faith, Jordan, Andrew and I went together to Yosemite for a two day adventure. The plan was to send 'Yosemite Falls Classic' Highline and set-up and get some practice walks on 'Lost Arrow Spire Classic' Highline. We decided for that quick weekend action because of the super-windy weather in Lodi/CA which made it impossible to jump and land safely at the dropzone.
Our car 'Karl' ready for the Yosemite adventure photo byJordan Tybon)
I have unfinished business with 'Yosemite Falls Classic' Highline since 2007 when Damian Cooksey, Jon Ritson and I bolted and established this line. During this trip I've sent the 'L.A.S. Classic' becoming 1st Pole to walk it and 4th person sending it OS-FM. Although, even I tried really hard, and got 3/4 of the line I couldn't send the Falls line. At that time my longest highline was 20 meters long. Heavy 'Yosemite Falls' Highline rigging (threaded tubular + tubular + 11mm diameter dynamic rope back-up) and massive exposure stopped me. The only people to send at the time where Damian Cooksey (FA, OS-OW&FM) and Corbin Usinger (OW).
Sending the 'L.A.S. Classic' Highline back in 2007
Compilation of Damian Cooksey sending the 'L.A.S. Classic' in 2007
We arrived in Yosemite pretty late and missed closing hour of Wilderness Center by just like 10 or 15 minutes. We registered that day but couldn't get the bear-containers without which we couldn't start hiking up the Yosemite Falls trail. Having no choice we decided to camp one night at legendary Camp 4. It was nice feeling to be back again together there after three years. After setting up tents we cooked amazing dinner to get the power needed for the next day battle.
Organizing and packing gear at the morning (photo by Jordan Tybon)
I woke up at 7am, ate quick small breakfast and started organizing and packing the gear. Our common friend Dave Meyers arrived in a middle of the night together with his girlfriend and few other friends. The plan was to get the bear-boxes at 9am when the office opens but of course we finally it took us way longer and eventually started hiking up the trail at 11.30am.
Faith hiking the last brutal part of Yosemite Falls trail (photo by Jordan Tybon)
I always forget that Yosemite Falls trail is no joke with a heavy haulbag. On the way back met bunch of other slackers I never seen before. The last part of the Yosemite Falls is brutal switch-back in a full sun and on a shitty annoying trail. I was slowly moving forward and finally reached the top after 1 hour an 50 minutes. Not bad considering that was my first hiking in a long time. I went down to Yosemite Falls line to say hello to everyone and see how is the line and the conditions.
I always forget that Yosemite Falls trail is no joke with a heavy
haulbag. On the way back met bunch of other slackers I never seen
before. The last part of the Yosemite Falls is brutal switch-back in a
full sun and on a shitty annoying trail. I was slowly moving forward and
finally reached the top after 1 hour an 50 minutes. Not bad considering
that was my first hiking in a long time. I went down to Yosemite Falls
line to say hello to everyone and see how is the line and the
conditions.
On top of Yosemite Falls trail, but hiking is not over yet (photo by Jordan Tybon)
Unluckily the reality was SUPER-windy.
Jared Alden was rigging the 1st Yosemite Falls space-line which later he
sent (4 time into exposure and twice on the way back). Faith, Jordan
and the rest of the crew got to the top soon after me. We set up the
camp, left the camping stuff, re-packed again, snacked on something and
went straight away to rig the 'L.A.S. Classic'.
It's always really cool to see Lost Arrow Spire emerging while you walk down the slab. I love the view from there. I teamed up with Dave to climb and rig this highline. Faith helped us on the flake side. After organizing the gear we rappelled down building the flake anchor on the way.
Climbing went pretty fast. I lead all three pitches mixing free and aid climbing on the way up. It was really fun experience and now I have a beta to do it MEGA-fast for the our 24 hours highline run in Yosemite Valley. On the last pitch Dave had to fight a bit with the trailing rope which got stuck somewhere around the corner so we finished rigging the Spire in a dark.
We got to the camp around 9.30-10.00pm ate as much as we could and crushed right away. We also came to realization we didn't bring enough food ...
After long and healing sleep we got up, ate breakfast and slowly starting hiking up to the Lost Arrow Spire. Bunch of people woke up at the morning and sent it already but I was feeling pretty destroyed after really intensive day before. Bunch of friends send the Spire for the first time. Andrew crushed it sending OS-OW and FM, Dave also sent FM, and another girl (Sara) sent the 'Lost Arrow Spire' OS (OW)!
I got on the line and sent it twice in a belt-loop swami. It was amazingly windy. The gusts where coming from all directions making the walk pretty challenging and exciting at the same time. It was an interesting experience that's for sure. I wanted to ankle-leash it really bad to get that free-solo feeling but conditions weren't even close to good enough.
Belt-loop swami on the Spire (photo by Jordan Tybon)
Faith crushed the line in a swami walking amazingly stable (but that's casual for her) and Jordan sent it few times too trying some exposure turns (scary stuff) ...
We went back to campsite for lunch and then to Yosemite Falls. Again the wind was completely crazy, the line completely loose and Nathan had to go down soon. We didn't see the point to push it especially because we'll be back in Yosemite in 2-3 weeks for a longer period of time. I would like to get on Falls line only in a swami ...
Because Falls line was not going to happen I went back to the Spire ready to de-rig. I rappelled down to the Flake anchor and squeezed in couple ankle-leash walks which just felt perfect. It wasn't so windy anymore and it felt really quite and peaceful. I think after few more highlines during this trip I should be ready for the one of my main goals for a long time which is to free-solo L.A.S. Classic. I will see, it is definitely not worth it to push it too much.
Dave also got on the line again and cruised it like a Jedi ;D After that we de-rigged the line as fast as we could got back to our campsite, packed, cleaned-up and started to hike down in a dark. Again, despite Mike who took our webbing no one waited to help us carry a bit of gear down even though so many people sent the line. I just think it is a bit funny thing ;)
I was hiking down together with Jordan, my headlamp was almost dead and I was surprised how tired I feel just hiking downhill. The part next to a fall was straight torture; slippery annoying path, bad light and the only thought in my head - FOOD ...
Eventually we all got down, packed our car and went back straight to Lodi arriving at 3am to sleep whole four hours before everyone at the dropzone wakes up and makes bunch of noise. Big respect for Jordan for staying awake and driving us back safely when all of us immediately fell asleep ... I feel bad about it.
That was a good adventure, I can not wait to go back to Yosemite and RAGE and hang out with more friends! Thanks to you all!
Yesterday, I got back from a fun, short trip to Yosemite Valley with Jordan, Faith and Andrew Craig where we met up with bunch of friends and some new faces. That was really condensed trip. In two and half days we had to drive from Lodi to the Valley, hike up Yosemite Falls trail, climb and rig the Spire (finishing in a night), de-rig, pack, hike down in a night and drive back to Lodi. I will publish a post from this trip as soon as Dave is done editing some of the pictures.
Yosemite Falls ... You can see Lost Arrow Spire in a top-right corner of the picture (photo by J. Tybon)
For me it was the third time rigging the L.A.S. Classic. I teamed up with Dave to climb and rig on the Spire side and Faith helped us on the flake site. My last visit in Yosemite was three years ago and I didn't remember lots of important details about climbing and rigging. Even though the line is only 17m long (70m H to the notch/880m to the valley floor) it is one of the most complicated rigs in the Valley. During this trip lots of friends sent the Spire for the first time and I thought it would be great to share the knowledge of how to rig the line so more people can get this amazing experience (not only of walking but also rigging it, which is way awesome!) and so I do not forget again ;) ...
Author walking L.A.S. in a swami/2009 (photo by J. Tybon)
OK, let's start with what gear will you need:
HIGHLINE GEAR: - the line + back-up (I can recommend 1" threaded Slack-Spec + Type-18 MKII or dynamic rope as a back-up or just double Type-18 MKII; it walks really nicely on this length!), - anchors materials; DOUBLE WEBBING: 4 x WebLock(together with bow shackle) or 2 x WebLock(together with bow shackle) and 2 x Line-Locker Kit(if you use line-locker kit, fix it on the non-tensioning side --> Flake side), WEBBING + ROPE: 2 x WebLock(together with bow shackle) + 2 x 7/16" bow shackle or 1 x WebLock(together with bow shackle) and 1 x Line-Locker Kit+ 2 x 7/16" bow shackle(if you use line-locker kit, fix it on the non-tensioning side --> Flake side), - leash rings + leash, - 4 x cam # 3 + metal connector (don't use aluminum carabiners!), you can use for example 12mm Delta Quicklink or steel carabiners, - 8 to 9 tree-protectors which you can easily rap around spansets and stuff, - light pulleys system with lineGrip works best (+multiplier), - 3 x 12mm Delta Quicklink or steel carabiners + 2 x Oval Quicklink or steel carabiners (for back-up bolts) for the Spire side, - 2 x 2m purple spanset, - tape, - highline-roller. CLIMBING GEAR: - 70-80m static rope or better 30-40 and 50-60m static ropes (ascending/rappelling ropes), - gri-gri + ascenders + daisy-chains + helmet + harness + climbing shoes/chalkbag, - cams: 2 medium size Aliens, 2 x #2, 2 x #3 & 2 x #4 camalot, - 2 x ladder + thin wire stoppers (# 1 or #2 from BD is perfect) for adding on bolts without hangers, - 1 x fifi-hook, - 1 x 70m dynamic rope, - 10 to 15 quickdraws, - slings and carabiners to built the anchors.
Approach: You want to start hiking Yosemite Falls Trail from Camp 4. If you're fast and you have a heavy haulbag you still should be able to do it in 2 hours (although more reasonable time is between 3-4h). Before you start hiking get your wilderness permit and the bear-box from the Wilderness Center. After getting to Yosemite Falls follow the trail to Yosemite Point. Soon after getting out of the woods turn right and start hiking down the slabs to the Spire. This last part will take you 15-30min.
Getting Down: In order to rig and climb the Spire you need to rappel to the notch which is around 80-90m below you. Make sure you have all the climbing gear with you and highline gear if you're planning on building the flake anchor on the way down. Attach your 30-40m static rope to one of the trees and rappel to the flake and climb your second (longer) static rope to a bolt (it's good to back it up to the first rappel rope) and rappel down to the notch. You can also start rigging the highline on the way down if you don't have someone who'll do it for you when you and your partner are climbing the Spire. If you do want to rig that anchor take 4 cams #3 with steel connectors, 2m spansets, 4-5 tree-protectors, webbing and back-up, 2 anchoring devices and a leash.
Climbing: Free-climbing the Spire is not too hard although the protection is not always the best and it takes way longer. I usually split the first pitch into two smaller ones because of the huge ledge in a middle. Your belayer can't see you and if you do fall you will definitely hit the edge (too much rope stretch). So, I think the fastest way is to free-climb the first half of the 1st pitch to the edge (the is one tricky spot, but you can pull on quickdraws - you will only need quickdraws for that part) and then partly aid and free-climb short off-width section (you will need few quickdraws and cams: 2 x #2, 2 x #3, 2 x #4 and aid-ladders). The last pitch is the longest one. It can be free-climber although again fastest way is to free-climb and aid-climb partially. It starts to the left and then follows up the tower edge. You will need all your quickdraws, two Aliens and your ladders with two small stoppers (you have to use their wires to hook your ladders on the bolts without any hangers). You can really charge fast on this pitch using this method. IMPORTANT!: The second has to trail the end of the static rope you rappelled on and make sure it doesn't get stuck on the way up. The best way is to have it clipped to the harness through Gri-Gri so you can add or remove slack.
Route beta from web (look at last three pitches)
Rigging: After getting to the top of the Spire you will need a person on the flake site with a haulbag filled with the rest of gear you will need (pulleys system + multiplier and extra sling, 4 tree-protectors, spanset + 5 metal connectors, your anchoring devices). You have to get the haulbag and the webbing across the gap. To achieve that give the person on the flake side a bit of slack, then the haulbag and the end of the webbing should be attached to a knot on the static rope - pull it across. Now you can built your anchor. For the main you have to use 3 10mm diameter bolts (they all do have hangers) and 2 behind for back-up. Equalize all 3 bolts with your 2m spanset and clip your anchoring devices (don't forget to protect rap your spanset with tree-protectors). When you have your anchor ready you can pull the haulbag with gear and the webbing using the static rope you were trailing behind you while climbing. Then it's easy - tension your highline, back it up, taped if it's not pre-taped and it is time for epic sends! RIGGING FLAKE SIDE: This anchor is not so easy to rig. You will need for cams #3 and if you want to have your anchor a bit lower (sitting in a vertical crack) also couple BD stopper to place in a vertical crack. What I like to to is to place my four cams on the left side of the vertical crack (looking on flake from a Spire side), equalize with my 2m spanset, protect with tree-protectors, clip the line and drop it down so it hold the anchor in place (so the cams don't 'walk' inside the crack). Remember to use steel connectors (not aluminum carabiners which usually are connected to the cams!).
The other option is to place couple cams on each side of vertical crack and two stoppers in a vertical splitter and then connect each two point and finally equalize all three with 1 meter spanset. This way the anchor is a bit lower. Back up your anchor to the bolt above the flake and the rappelling rope!
Michał Korniewicz sending in 2009 (photo by J. Tybon)
De-Rigging: Before you start de-tensioning the line make sure you bring the static rope to the Spire side. What you want to do is to clip one end of the static rope to the bolt above the flake, then run it through two bolts on the spire (they are usually carabiners from the rappelling anchor) and then back to the bolt above the flake clipped through the Gri-Gri (so you can tension it a bit to tirolean easier across the rope). When you have your ropes ready back the bolt with the rappelling rope and start de-tensioning your line and the drop it. Pack the rest of your gear to the whole back and tirolean across the rope (clip to both strands!). After you're on the flake side secure your self and release the static rope. Pull it through and it is done. Ascent up the rope to the tree, clean-up and organize your gear and you can start the fun part - hiking down the Yosemite Falls trails (which usually takes place in a night) ;) ...
Author after a swami-belt ascent back in 2009 (photo by J. Tybon)
I will be back in Yosemite in about 3 weeks or so and I will rig the Spire lines at least twice so I promise to take some rigging pictures to make everything more clear. I am also adding 'Highline Guidebook' (look on the right side) section to my blog whee you can rigging info about some classic lines. I am hoping everything is clear. Comment here if you don't understand something or need more info/advice.
Jordan and I spent last couple days in Davis hanging out with Jerry Miszewski(founder of Balance Community, world record holder and great friend) and his wife Susan. It was really fun times and I'm looking forward to repeat it pretty soon!
First day after we arrived we had a pleasure to visit BC warehouse and were just amazed by amount of the slackline gear we were faced with ... Slackline Porn to the maximum in a best quality available!! Of course we touched every piece on a display, had endless conversations about slackline rigging methods and did other interesting things slackline nerds like us do.
We went together to do some abrasion tests on the new Mantra MK II and Type-18 webbings and it turned out to be lots of fun. After setting up slanted line I had a pleasure to zip-line on it hanging on the haulbag filled with 50kG of shackle. Adding to it my weight (which is around 65-68kG) and small ring on which all of that weight was sliding on the webbings should be destroyed. Both Mantra MK II and Type-18 took this beating really well presenting only small abrasion, leading to important conclusion - the webbings are beefy and definitely suitable for highlining purposes. We decided to test both webbings further more next day in real life. After enough testing action we set up nice rodeo line and surfed as hard as we could.
trying to pull 50kG haulbag up on the slanted slackline ain't easy ... ;)
hardcore zip-lining/line testing ;D
After nice skateboard sessions (BTW Jerry's dad was pro-skater - that kind of explain Jerry's phenomena - must be the genes :P) we went to Jerry's and Susan's house were we had a nice pizza party and lots of good conversations - good times!
Next day we went to Nimbus Dam Recreation Area (close to Sacramento) where we set-up 73m long and 10m high 'The Next Step' Tree-Highline. The line hangs above really nice grassy creek. The spot is perfect offering nice corridor with no obstacles in a beautiful surrounding.
Read what is on the pulley ... Well, to late! It works great (prototype of the swivel pulley with braking cam)[photo by J.Tybon]
It took us about 20-25min to set up. We used Mantra MK II for the main line and Type-18 for back-up. The lines where tensioned with two separate pulleys systems which makes it supper easy to adjust the tension when you need to. We had the line tensioned and walked with 7 and 8kN of tension. Jerry sent it of course with no problems at all, doing nice bouncing sit starts in a middle of the line, bounce-walking and even, bouncing-turning sit-start (which is just crazy) ...
Jordan's wrist is hurt he decided to take it easy and focus on getting some pictures and Faith couldn't come at all - she had to take care of broken car. It was all up to me. I didn't believe I'm really in shape to do this. Even though the line wasn't exposed it was still heavy, loose (as for my standards) and quite long. Although after fe tries I was able to cross the harder direction for me and send it OS on the way back. I've sent it again one way with 7kN of tension and then we had to de-rig and drive back to Lodi.
Finishing the line carefully above 10m long 'no fall zone' [photo by J.Tybon]
I have to figure out what's going to happen with my AFF and the plans due to my new unexpected financial problems but I'm still positive. It was a great day!
I have spent last few days together with Jordan and Faith at the world famous dropzone in Lodi, CA. I have to say all the jumpers and the crew have been really nice to us sharing lots of knowledge and helping us to understand as much as we can in such a short period of time. The weather was mostly good, sometimes a bit rainy and windy. I did my tandem jump and 4 of my 7 AFF jumps, although I stopped at the 3rd level which I had to repeat.
My friends already finished their AFF and Jordan has another 7-8 solo jumps after today. For me the situation is a bit more complicated. I have to admit; skydiving is way more difficult then I thought. I definitely have some problems to relax while falling but I wasn't doing bad. Still deployed my chute on time, performed my tasks and landed at the dropzone. My last fourth jump during first day of AFF wasn't ideal, after my second turn I had a spinner and got stressed and de-arched a bit my body position but managed to pull on 5500 feet and landed safely. Even though my instructor would pass me after repeating the jump, Bill, the owner of the dropzone, wasn't quite happy with me. I heard he is quite character but now I had a chance to experience it on my own and it wasn't quite nice.
Basically I heard I am a climber and this is not for me, I am too tense and so on. Well I am just a student and it feels like I have been picked for a stupid reason. I did 6 min of practice at the iFly wind tunnel in San Francisco working on my AFF elements and it felt pretty solid. I just have to remember to arch and relax and enjoy my flight.
Bill is pretty negative but I will try to talk to him tomorrow after weekend and if the answer is still no, I will have to finish my course at the different dropzone. It has been pretty demotivating and depressing experience and it made me question myself and my motivations. It is not easy to stay positive all the time. Last few days I felt pretty down actually and it was hard to motivate myself to do anything. I will do my best and I know I can skydive. To have a friend here like Jordan is also a huge support.
Yesterday Nathan Huerta came do Lodi together with his girlfriend Brittany to do their first tandem jump and afterwards we went together to the park to do some slacklining. We had a 350'ish longline and 22m rodeoline with around 6m of sag. Both lines rigged with Type-18 - it is such an amazing and dynamic line! I had bunch of fun slacklining, skateboarding and practicing my handstands. I know I did not have enough of these things during last couple months because I did not give myself even a minute of rest. Rage full on, all time ;) At the end I enjoyed some beautiful colorful sunset and drove back to the dropzone. So, tomorrow is the day of truth but I am trying not to worry too much - if not that's not the end of the world ;)
