Lost Arrow Spire (Classic) - RIGGING BETA

Yesterday, I got back from a fun, short trip to Yosemite Valley with Jordan, Faith and Andrew Craig where we met up with bunch of friends and some new faces. That was really condensed trip. In two and half days we had to drive from Lodi to the Valley, hike up Yosemite Falls trail, climb and rig the Spire (finishing in a night), de-rig, pack, hike down in a night and drive back to Lodi. I will publish a post from this trip as soon as Dave is done editing some of the pictures.

Yosemite Falls ... You can see Lost Arrow Spire in a top-right corner of the picture (photo by J. Tybon)

For me it was the third time rigging the L.A.S. Classic. I teamed up with Dave to climb and rig on the Spire side and Faith helped us on the flake site. My last visit in Yosemite was three years ago and I didn't remember lots of important details about climbing and rigging. Even though the line is only 17m long (70m H to the notch/880m to the valley floor) it is one of the most complicated rigs in the Valley. During this trip lots of friends sent the Spire for the first time and I thought it would be great to share the knowledge of how to rig the line so more people can get this amazing experience (not only of walking but also rigging it, which is way awesome!) and so I do not forget again ;) ...

Damian Czermak on the L.A.S. Classic in 2009 (photo by J. Tybon)

Author walking L.A.S. in a swami/2009 (photo by J. Tybon)

OK, let's start with what gear will you need:

HIGHLINE GEAR:
- the line + back-up (I can recommend 1" threaded Slack-Spec + Type-18 MKII or dynamic rope as a back-up or just double Type-18 MKII; it walks really nicely on this length!),
- anchors materials; DOUBLE WEBBING: 4 x WebLock (together with bow shackle) or 2 x WebLock (together with bow shackle) and 2 x Line-Locker Kit (if you use line-locker kit, fix it on the non-tensioning side --> Flake side), WEBBING + ROPE: 2 x WebLock (together with bow shackle) + 2 x 7/16" bow shackle or 1 x WebLock (together with bow shackle) and 1 x Line-Locker Kit + 2 x 7/16" bow shackle (if you use line-locker kit, fix it on the non-tensioning side --> Flake side),
- leash rings + leash,
- 4 x cam # 3 + metal connector (don't use aluminum carabiners!), you can use for example 12mm Delta Quicklink or steel carabiners,
- 8 to 9 tree-protectors which you can easily rap around spansets and stuff,
- light pulleys system with lineGrip works best (+multiplier),
- 3 x 12mm Delta Quicklink or steel carabiners + 2 x Oval Quicklink or steel carabiners (for back-up bolts) for the Spire side,
- 2 x 2m purple spanset,
- tape,
- highline-roller.

CLIMBING GEAR:
- 70-80m static rope or better 30-40 and 50-60m static ropes (ascending/rappelling ropes),
- gri-gri + ascenders + daisy-chains + helmet + harness + climbing shoes/chalkbag,
- cams: 2 medium size Aliens, 2 x #2, 2 x #3 & 2 x #4 camalot,
- 2 x ladder + thin wire stoppers (# 1 or #2 from BD is perfect) for adding on bolts without hangers,
- 1 x fifi-hook,
- 1 x 70m dynamic rope,
- 10 to 15 quickdraws,
- slings and carabiners to built the anchors.

Damian Czermak ready to rappel to the notch (2009, photo by J. Tybon)

Rigging info:

Approach: You want to start hiking Yosemite Falls Trail from Camp 4. If you're fast and you have a heavy haulbag you still should be able to do it in 2 hours (although more reasonable time is between 3-4h). Before you start hiking get your wilderness permit and the bear-box from the Wilderness Center. After getting to Yosemite Falls follow the trail to Yosemite Point. Soon after getting out of the woods turn right and start hiking down the slabs to the Spire. This last part will take you 15-30min.

Getting Down: In order to rig and climb the Spire you need to rappel to the notch which is around 80-90m below you. Make sure you have all the climbing gear with you and highline gear if you're planning on building the flake anchor on the way down. Attach your 30-40m static rope to one of the trees and rappel to the flake and climb your second (longer) static rope to a bolt (it's good to back it up to the first rappel rope) and rappel down to the notch. You can also start rigging the highline on the way down if you don't have someone who'll do it for you when you and your partner are climbing the Spire. If you do want to rig that anchor take 4 cams #3 with steel connectors, 2m spansets, 4-5 tree-protectors, webbing and back-up, 2 anchoring devices and a leash.

Climbing: Free-climbing the Spire is not too hard although the protection is not always the best and it takes way longer. I usually split the first pitch into two smaller ones because of the huge ledge in a middle. Your belayer can't see you and if you do fall you will definitely hit the edge (too much rope stretch). So, I think the fastest way is to free-climb the first half of the 1st pitch to the edge (the is one tricky spot, but you can pull on quickdraws - you will only need quickdraws for that part) and then partly aid and free-climb short off-width section (you will need few quickdraws and cams: 2 x #2, 2 x #3, 2 x #4 and aid-ladders). The last pitch is the longest one. It can be free-climber although again fastest way is to free-climb and aid-climb partially. It starts to the left and then follows up the tower edge. You will need all your quickdraws, two Aliens and your ladders with two small stoppers (you have to use their wires to hook your ladders on the bolts without any hangers). You can really charge fast on this pitch using this method.
IMPORTANT!: The second has to trail the end of the static rope you rappelled on and make sure it doesn't get stuck on the way up. The best way is to have it clipped to the harness through Gri-Gri so you can add or remove slack.

Route beta from web (look at last three pitches)

Rigging: After getting to the top of the Spire you will need a person on the flake site with a haulbag filled with the rest of gear you will need (pulleys system + multiplier and extra sling, 4 tree-protectors, spanset + 5 metal connectors, your anchoring devices). You have to get the haulbag and the webbing across the gap. To achieve that give the person on the flake side a bit of slack, then the haulbag and the end of the webbing should be attached to a knot on the static rope - pull it across. Now you can built your anchor. For the main you have to use 3 10mm diameter bolts (they all do have hangers) and 2 behind for back-up. Equalize all 3 bolts with your 2m spanset and clip your anchoring devices (don't forget to protect rap your spanset with tree-protectors). When you have your anchor ready you can pull the haulbag with gear and the webbing using the static rope you were trailing behind you while climbing. Then it's easy - tension your highline, back it up, taped if it's not pre-taped and it is time for epic sends!
RIGGING FLAKE SIDE: This anchor is not so easy to rig. You will need for cams #3 and if you want to have your anchor a bit lower (sitting in a vertical crack) also couple BD stopper to place in a vertical crack. What I like to to is to place my four cams on the left side of the vertical crack (looking on flake from a Spire side), equalize with my 2m spanset, protect with tree-protectors, clip the line and drop it down so it hold the anchor in place (so the cams don't 'walk' inside the crack). Remember to use steel connectors (not aluminum carabiners which usually are connected to the cams!).
The other option is to place couple cams on each side of vertical crack and two stoppers in a vertical splitter and then connect each two point and finally equalize all three with 1 meter spanset. This way the anchor is a bit lower. Back up your anchor to the bolt above the flake and the rappelling rope!

Damian Czermak on the L.A.S. Classic in 2009 (photo by J. Tybon)

Michał Korniewicz sending in 2009 (photo by J. Tybon)

De-Rigging: Before you start de-tensioning the line make sure you bring the static rope to the Spire side. What you want to do is to clip one end of the static rope to the bolt above the flake, then run it through two bolts on the spire (they are usually carabiners from the rappelling anchor) and then back to the bolt above the flake clipped through the Gri-Gri (so you can tension it a bit to tirolean easier across the rope). When you have your ropes ready back the bolt with the rappelling rope and start de-tensioning your line and the drop it. Pack the rest of your gear to the whole back and tirolean across the rope (clip to both strands!). After you're on the flake side secure your self and release the static rope. Pull it through and it is done. Ascent up the rope to the tree, clean-up and organize your gear and you can start the fun part - hiking down the Yosemite Falls trails (which usually takes place in a night) ;) ...

Author after a swami-belt ascent back in 2009 (photo by J. Tybon)

I will be back in Yosemite in about 3 weeks or so and I will rig the Spire lines at least twice so I promise to take some rigging pictures to make everything more clear. I am also adding 'Highline Guidebook' (look on the right side) section to my blog whee you can rigging info about some classic lines. I am hoping everything is clear. Comment here if you don't understand something or need more info/advice.

Peace & SlackOn!
Janek

US Trip 2013 - Take 3; Davis Slacklin'; fun with Jedi Jerry M.

Jordan and I spent last couple days in Davis hanging out with Jerry Miszewski (founder of Balance Community, world record holder and great friend) and his wife Susan. It was really fun times and I'm looking forward to repeat it pretty soon!

First day after we arrived we had a pleasure to visit BC warehouse and were just amazed by amount of the slackline gear we were faced with ... Slackline Porn to the maximum in a best quality available!! Of course we touched every piece on a display, had endless conversations about slackline rigging methods and did other interesting things slackline nerds like us do.

We went together to do some abrasion tests on the new Mantra MK II and Type-18 webbings and it turned out to be lots of fun. After setting up slanted line I had a pleasure to zip-line on it hanging on the haulbag filled with 50kG of shackle. Adding to it my weight (which is around 65-68kG) and small ring on which all of that weight was sliding on the webbings should be destroyed. Both Mantra MK II and Type-18 took this beating really well presenting only small abrasion, leading to important conclusion - the webbings are beefy and definitely suitable for highlining purposes. We decided to test both webbings further more next day in real life. After enough testing action we set up nice rodeo line and surfed as hard as we could.

trying to pull 50kG haulbag up on the slanted slackline ain't easy ... ;)

hardcore zip-lining/line testing ;D

After nice skateboard sessions (BTW Jerry's dad was pro-skater - that kind of explain Jerry's phenomena - must be the genes :P) we went to Jerry's and Susan's house were we had a nice pizza party and lots of good conversations - good times!

Next day we went to Nimbus Dam Recreation Area (close to Sacramento) where we set-up 73m long and 10m high 'The Next Step' Tree-Highline. The line hangs above really nice grassy creek. The spot is perfect offering nice corridor with no obstacles in a beautiful surrounding.

Read what is on the pulley ... Well, to late! It works great (prototype of the swivel pulley with braking cam) [photo by J.Tybon]

Master Rigga' [photo by J.Tybon]

Our set-up [photo by J. Miszewski]

Rig it, rig it!! [photo by J.Tybon]

It took us about 20-25min to set up. We used Mantra MK II for the main line and Type-18 for back-up. The lines where tensioned with two separate pulleys systems which makes it supper easy to adjust the tension when you need to. We had the line tensioned and walked with 7 and 8kN of tension. Jerry sent it of course with no problems at all, doing nice bouncing sit starts in a middle of the line, bounce-walking and even, bouncing-turning sit-start (which is just crazy) ...

Jerry crusing it! [photo by J.Tybon]

Jordan's wrist is hurt he decided to take it easy and focus on getting some pictures and Faith couldn't come at all - she had to take care of broken car. It was all up to me. I didn't believe I'm really in shape to do this. Even though the line wasn't exposed it was still heavy, loose (as for my standards) and quite long. Although after fe tries I was able to cross the harder direction for me and send it OS on the way back. I've sent it again one way with 7kN of tension and then we had to de-rig and drive back to Lodi.

Finishing the line carefully above 10m long 'no fall zone'  [photo by J.Tybon]

I have to figure out what's going to happen with my AFF and the plans due to my new unexpected financial problems but I'm still positive. It was a great day!

[photo by J.Tybon]

Stay tunned for more updates from a trip and short video coming up soon!

Peace & SlackOn!
Janek

US Trip 2013 - Take 2; AFF in Lodi; 'things ain't always as easy'

I have spent last few days together with Jordan and Faith at the world famous dropzone in Lodi, CA. I have to say all the jumpers and the crew have been really nice to us sharing lots of knowledge and helping us to understand as much as we can in such a short period of time. The weather was mostly good, sometimes a bit rainy and windy. I did my tandem jump and 4 of my 7 AFF jumps, although I stopped at the 3rd level which I had to repeat.

My friends already finished their AFF and Jordan has another 7-8 solo jumps after today. For me the situation is a bit more complicated. I have to admit; skydiving is way more difficult then I thought. I definitely have some problems to relax while falling but I wasn't doing bad. Still deployed my chute on time, performed my tasks and landed at the dropzone. My last fourth jump during first day of AFF wasn't ideal, after my second turn I had a spinner and got stressed and de-arched a bit my body position but managed to pull on 5500 feet and landed safely. Even though my instructor would pass me after repeating the jump, Bill, the owner of the dropzone, wasn't quite happy with me. I heard he is quite character but now I had a chance to experience it on my own and it wasn't quite nice.

Basically I heard I am a climber and this is not for me, I am too tense and so on. Well I am just a student and it feels like I have been picked for a stupid reason. I did 6 min of practice at the iFly wind tunnel in San Francisco working on my AFF elements and it felt pretty solid. I just have to remember to arch and relax and enjoy my flight. 

Bill is pretty negative but I will try to talk to him tomorrow after weekend and if the answer is still no, I will have to finish my course at the different dropzone. It has been pretty demotivating and depressing experience and it made me question myself and my motivations. It is not easy to stay positive all the time. Last few days I felt pretty down actually and it was hard to motivate myself to do anything. I will do my best and I know I can skydive. To have a friend here like Jordan is also a huge support.

Yesterday Nathan Huerta came do Lodi together with his girlfriend Brittany to do their first tandem jump and afterwards we went together to the park to do some slacklining. We had a 350'ish longline and 22m rodeoline with around 6m of sag. Both lines rigged with Type-18 - it is such an amazing and dynamic line! I had bunch of fun slacklining, skateboarding and practicing my handstands. I know I did not have enough of these things during last couple months because I did not give myself even a minute of rest. Rage full on, all time ;) At the end I enjoyed some beautiful colorful sunset and drove back to the dropzone. So, tomorrow is the day of truth but I am trying not to worry too much - if not that's not the end of the world ;)

Peace & SlackOn!

Janek

US Trip 2013 - Take 1; Tacoma & Ashland

I am here in US for few days already and so far the trip was really nice even though Jordan and I didn't make it yet to one of our main targets, which Lodi/CA. After arriving in Tacoma/WA we had a few chill days. Jordan got a bit sick so it wasn't as active as we planned (meaning no bouldering or climbing) but we managed to organize few important things for our trip, pack and we even went for a short slacklining session. It was kind of weird to slackline after almost 2 months brake but it helped me to realize how much work I have to do. It is time to get back on it!

Together with Jordan we went to Chambers Bay Park to set up a line on this amazing structure. I think Jordan was thinking about setting this line for quite a while but apparently someone already did it before us and he was in EU for really long time too. It was really nice to do this line together at his home spot. I wish the park had some big trees - it would be such an amazing longline location. We had only few hours to sesh the line but Jordan was able to take some nice pictures. We also used my fresh green Type-18 webbing from Balance Community for the first time and I must say it's a great line. You can check few pictures from or session ...

We left Tacoma on Friday stuffed with delicious food cooked by Jordan's parents and drove straight to Ashland/Oregon to meet up with slackline protagonist Scott Balcom. I would believe every slackliner knows or should know who he is. If you do not know, he is the first guy to walk a highline (Lost Arrow Spire), publish a slackline book and he pretty much 'invented' our sport and bunch of slacklining gear.

We were really psyched to meet Scott again. It's been a while since the last time we saw each other. We knew he is really psyched on the videos of rodeolining we were posting lately on the web, so the plan was to go to the park rodeoline together. I was speaking with Jordan the other night and he said; 'would you ever think we will be teaching Scott Balcom how to rodeo line?!'. The answer was no. Slacklining takes you in really unexpected directions sometimes ...

After restful night we had an amazing day in Ashland. At the morning went longboarding a bit, then a visit to Scott's shop and a 'slackline history class'. We had a chance to see all the prototypes, evolution of slackline gear as well as some other projects Scott is working on. Some cool footage was taken for sure (if you're a gear nerd as we are) ...

We went to Triangle Park ans set up two rodeolines and one old-school slackline with Scott's gear. We had 15m rodeoline set-up with Type-18 webbing and about 3-4m of sag, 25m rodeoline set-up with Aero webbing with about 5-6m of sag and 5/8" tubular webbing tensioned with SlackJack - true old-school set-up great for playing around and surfing. It was a great day and we all had fun. I was getting back in shape and got few really good sideways surfs, Jordan was going big (or I should say HUGE) and Scott was playing around on still new to him rodeoline. Here is few GoPro snapshots for you ...

Today is a bit rainy and we are packing up and leaving soon to Lodi, CA where we'll stay for 2 - 2,5 weeks. We are going to meet up with Faith Dickey and then tomorrow do our first jump (tandem) and then our AFF course. After this we'll continue to jump with bunch of friends and do around 150 jumps with some highlining and bouldering in Bay Area in between. Stay tuned for more adventures!

Peace & SlackOn!

Changes, Plans and Updates for 2013

I had no time to keep up with my blog posts lately. I was busy working as an industrial climber in Rivera (Switzerland) assembling membrane roof over new aqua-park. I will not get into details because you would be definitely bored. It was a pretty cool job and cannot complain. I was working with really nice crew; got lots of experience and hours in my IRATA logbook and learned new things ... Sometimes this work can be really hard on you. I had to work 10 hours per day. It was really sunny for one week but I survived whole spectrum of weather. It does not matter if it is windy, snowy, icy or rainy, you have to work. Now when I am already in US, feeling excited and a bit scarred at the same time about my next adventure, I can honestly say I miss that great group of people I had a pleasure to work with.

My life in Swiss for last 1,5 month ...

Well, you might find your self asking why I am writing about working on my slackline based blog. The reason why I do this is due to some changes in my life which are quite important in terms of what, how and why do it.

For last few years I evolved a lot as a slackliner, human being and I learned a lot about myself and others. Now I came to realization that it is right time to change some things in my life. First of all I am sure I want to continue living the slacklife but at the same time I do not want to be dependent so much on sponsors, other people and I do not want to be broke every time I go back from a trip. I spent last 3 - 4 years leaving to the max dirtbag style and it was a great experience although I know now I wouldn't be able to continue this lifestyle much longer.

Adding to the picture my plans for next 2-3 years, I knew I had to come up with a new plan. Together with my best friend and SWEL team member Jordan Tybon we figured out that our best option is to make proper papers (IRATA and FISAT) to work internationally as a industrial climbers and safe up money for our plans. It was a bit expensive to do all the training and get the experience, but soon after that it paid off.

With the sponsorship I had it would be impossible to realize all the plans I had. I wanted to do lots of new stuff I was putting off for too long. I want to do AFF course, then between 150-200 skydives from 4000m and hopefully start BASE jumping. Add to this gear, flights and leaving costs and it becomes pretty expensive thing. I would also like to start ice climbing this year and in 2 years realize my main goal which will combine 3 different outdoor disciplines in one epic project.

I will definitely continue to be semi-professional athlete but it is nice to know I can totally support myself and still have time to do what I love to do. Now the plan is to balance this two ways of making a living and to find good proportions.

After three years I have finished my co-operation with Gibbon Slackline as a PRO-Team athlete. It was a really good experience and I could write a separate blog post about it. I made lots of friends at Gibbon and will always have many good memories. Unfortunately, I think my plans were not so interesting to the company policy and we were going in a different directions. So, finally I decided it's better to finish the co-operation. It's a long story ... Anyways I am not even going to try get any financial support from a slackline company anymore. I do not see the point.

At the end it is much better for me to spend couple months working and training at the same time and then go do my thing. I do not have to stress about many things I did before which didn't let me focus so much on my projects or things I would like to do. Now I have more time to do what I want to do and when I am doing, I am less distracted and I can enjoy myself more during the trip. So, I am still a dirtbag ... just with a better plan and a bit more organized (which is probably a good thing) ;)

Since beginning of this year I started co-operation with Balance Community. I always liked their gear and company's philosophy. The company was founded by a friend of mine and amazing slackliner Jerry Miszewski, known from his world record breaking ascents on big longlines, highlines and his passion to create amazing slackline gear. BC offers high variety of slackline gear; anything from tricklining, through longlining and highlining. It is always top quality, super safe and made by slackliners for slackliners. I could not ask for more and I feel really glad I can represent them with my next projects. You can check my profile on the PRO-Team page.

There might be other sponsorship opportunities but I do not have to stress about it too much. I will be on the trip in USA for next 2.5 months together with Jordan. Faith Dickey will join us for a part of the trip. We are also going to rage with Jerry, Andy, Scotty and others. I can not wait! We will be doing some epic projects in Smith Rock, Yosemite and some new area from Scott Balcom, do our AFF, 150 skydives and then BASE-jump at the end of the trip from Perrine Bridge. You will find more info about my trip in US in the next blog posts. I have some nice projects for the rest of the year too, but I can save writing about it for later.

I am here already and Jordan and I are getting ready to RAGE! We're leaving to Lodi, CA on Sunday. Hopefully Jordan gets better soon (he just got sick, damn it ...).

Of course, first thing I do after arriving in USA is play with new skydiving rigs together with Jordan

Peace & SlackOn!